Not known for modern conveniences, Vietnam has an inconvenient transportation system. This in itself has been an obstacle for the Vietnamese to overcome while advancing economically. The main mode of transportation is that of the bicycle rickshaw, bicycles are also popular and are used for transport to and from work for most Vietnamese. Others use it for carrying groceries and other items as well and have managed to make packing the bicycle almost an art with the tremendous loads that are carried. Although improvements have been attempted, particularly with the major roadways, the main source of transportation for goods is by barge, utilizing the many rivers and canals.
Outdated ports, even major ones for international shipping, are still behind the times, as is the state-run Vietnamese Airlines. The airline does have both domestic and international flights, but the fact that the majority of their planes are outdated Soviet models hinders growth. The government is taking a more active role with the airline in that it is attempting to purchase new planes from Europe and the U.S.

Air

Vietnam Airlines (www.vietnamairlines.com.vn) has a monopoly on domestic flights, as it owns the only rival, Pacific Airlines ( www.pacificairline.com.vn ), which flies the Hanoi-HCMC route and the HCMC-Danang route.

Most travel agents do not charge any more than when you book directly with the airline. A passport is required to make a booking on all domestic flights.

Vietnam Airlines has come a long way and many (but not all) branch offices accer; credit cards for ticket purchases. The airline has retired its ancient Soviet-built fleet and purchased new Western-made aircraft. (See the Domestic Airline Schedules for routes available within Vietnam).

There's a helicopter charter service from Hanoi to Halong Bay. At present, Northern Airport Flight Service Company (tel.                04-827-4409        ; fax 827-2780; 173 Pho Truong Chinh, Hanoi) offers a helicopter charter service from Hanoi to Halong Bay on Saturday from 7.15am. The cost for the charter service is US$195 per person, but it only runs with a minimum of six guests. The same helicopters can be privately chartered for US$2000 an hour.

DOMESTIC AIRLINE SCHEDULES VIETNAM AIRLINES

A great way to get around Vietnam's towns and cities is to do as the locals do and ride a bicycle. During rush hours, urban thoroughfares approach gridlock, as rushing streams of cyclists force their way through intersections without the benefit of traffic lights. In the countryside, Westerners on bicycles are often greeted enthusiastically by locals who don'l see many foreigners pedalling around.

Long-distance cycling is popular in Vietnam. Much of the country is flat or only moderately hilly, and the major roads are in good shape. Safety, however, is a considerable concern. Bicycles can be transported around the country on the top of buses or in train baggage compartments. Lonely Planet's Cycling Vietnam, Laos & Cambodia gives the lowdown on cycling through Vietnam.

Decent bikes can be bought at a few speciality shops in Hanoi and HCMC, but it's better to bring your own if you plan on cycling over long distances. Mountain bikes are preferable, a large potholes or unsealed roads are rough on the rims. Basic cycling safety equipment and authentic spare parts arc also in short supply, so bring all this from home. A bell is mandatory - the louder the better.

Hotels and some travel agencies rent bicycles from 10,000d to US$1 per day and it is a great way to explore some of the smaller cities like Hue or Nha Trang. There are innumerable bicycle-repair stands along the side ol the roads in every city and town in Vietnam.

      Groups of foreign cyclists touring Vietnam are a common sight these days, and there are several tour companies that specialise in bicycling trips. 

Boat

Vietnam has an enormous number of rivers that are at least partly navigable, but the most important by far is the Mekong River and its tributaries. Scenic day trips by boat are possible on rivers in Hoi An, Danang, Hue, Tarn Coc and even HCMC, but only in the Mekong Delta are boats used as a practical means of transport.

Boat trips are also possible on the sea - a cruise to the islands off the coast of Nha Trang is a particularly popular trip. If you visit Halong Bay, a cruise to the islands in that region is a must.
  In some parts of Vietnam, particularly the Mekong Delta, there are frequent ferry crossings. Don't stand between parked vehicles on the ferry as they can roll and you could wind up as the meat in the sandwich.

Bus

Vietnam has an extensive network of dirt-cheap buses that reach the far-flung corners of the country. Traditionally, few foreign travellers have used them becaof safety concerns and overcharging, but the situation is improving with modern buses and fixed-price ticket offices at most bus stations.

Bus fleets are being upgraded as fast as the roads, so the old French, American and Russian buses from the '50s, '60s and '70s are becoming increasingly rare. On most popular routes, modern Korean buses are the flavour of the day. Most of these offer air-con and comfortable seats, but on the flipside most of them are equipped with TVs and dreaded karaoke machines. You can ignore the crazy kung fu videos by closing your eyes (or wearing a blindfold), but you'd need to be deaf to sleep through the karaoke sessions - ear plugs are recommended!

Figuring out the bus system is not easy. Many cities have several bus stations, and responsibilities are divided according to the location of the destination (whether it is north or south of the city) and the type of service being offered (local or long distance, express or nonexpress).

Short-distance buses, mostly minibuses, depart when full (ie jam-packed with people and luggage). They often operate throughout the day, but don't count on many leaving after about 4pm.

Non-express buses and minibuses nt stops to pick up and drop off (and arrange luggage and chickens) can make for a slow journey.

Express buses make a beeline from place to place. This is the deluxe class and you can usually be certain of there being enouch  space to sit comfortably. Such luxury comes at a price, but it's very cheap by anyone’s standards.

It is also perfectly feasible (and highly recommended) to kick in with some fellow travellers and charter your own minibus. If possible, try to travel during daylight hours only. Many drivers refto drive after dark becathe unlit highways leni' to have gaping potholes and lots of bicycle; and pedestrians who seem oblivious to the traffic. However, if you like living dangerously, there are some overnight buses.

Be aware that luggage is easily pilfered at toilet stops unless someone is looking after it. Bound to the rooftop, it should be safe from swift hands, but try keeping the bags in sight. A distinct disadvantage of having your gear on top is that it will be exposed to constant dust and sometimes heavy rain.

No matter how honest your fellow passengers might seem, never accept drinks from them, as there is a chance you may be drugged and robbed.

Reservations & Costs

Reservations aren't required for most of the frequent, popular services between towns and cities, but it doesn't hurt to purchase the ticket the day before if you're on a departure time. Most major bus stations now have ticket offices with official prices clearly displayed. Always buy a ticket from the office, as bus drivers arc notorious overchargers.

Costs are negligible, though on rural runs foreigners are typically charged anywhere from twice to 10 times the going rate. If you have to battle it out with the bus driver, it is helpful to determine the cost of the ticket for locals before starting negotiations.

Open Tours

In backpacker haunts throughout Vietnam, you'll see lots of signs advertising “Open Tour”, “Open Date Ticket” or “Open Ticket”. This is a bus service catering mostly to foreign budget travellers, not to Vietnamese. These air-con buses run between HCMC and Hanoi and people can hop on and hop off the bus at any major city along the route.

Competition has driven the price of these tours so low that it would practically only be cheaper if you walked. Sample prices from HCMC are as follows:

Some would argue they should raise the cost of the tickets and, by actually making money on the bus fare, allow passengers some freedom of choice on arrival at a destination. Unfortunately, they depend on kickbacks from a very elaborate and well-established network of sister hotels and restaurants along the way, making the whole experience feel like you are part of a herd.

However, bear in mind that if they weren't collecting commissions by delivering travellers to using these relatively speedy buses, but it can make your hair turn grey (or fall out!).

As cheap and popular as it is, the open-tour deal is not the ideal way to experience Vietnam. Once you've bought the ticket, you're stuck with it. It really isolates you from Vietnam - you should try to have at least some contact with the locals. Buying shorter point-to-point tickets on the open-tour buses costs a bit more but you achieve more flexibility, including the chance to take a train, rent a motorbike or simply change plans.

Nevertheless, cheap open-tour tickets are a temptation and many people go for tiiem. A couple of shorter routes to try arc HCMC-Dalal and HCMC-Mui Ne Beach, two places that are not serviced by train.

If you are on open-tour tickets, look for them at budget cafes in HCMC and Hanoi. From the original Sinh Cafe concept a decade ago, there are now lots of companies in on this game. Buses vary in size and standard, so a good rule of thumb is to turn up and check out the bus before committing to a company.

Car & Motorbike

The discomfort and unreliability of Vietnam's public transport combined with the relative affordabilify of vehicle hire makes the latter a popular option. Having your own of wheels gives you maximum flexibility to visit remote regions and stop when and where you please.

Driving Licence

In order to drive a car in Vietnam, you need a domestic licence and an International Driving Permit, usually issued by your automobile association back home. When it comes to renting motorbikes, it's a case of no licence required.

Fuel & Spare Parts

Fuel is pretty cheap in Vietnam, at around 6000d a litre. Fuel is readily available throughout the country, but prices rise in rural areas. Even the most isolated communities usually have someone selling petrol out of Fanta or Johnnie Walker bottles. Some sellers mix this fuel with kerosene to make a quick profit -it sparingly, in emergencies only.

When it comes to spare parts, Vietnam is awash with Japanese motorbikes, so it is easy to get parts for Hondas, Yamahas or Suzukis, but finding a part for a Harley or a Ducati is another matter. Likewise for cars, spares for Japanese cars are easv to come by, as are spares for international brands manufactured in Vietnam like tord and Mercedes. But if you are driving something obscure, whether with two wheels or four, bring substantial spares.

Hire

The major considerations arc safety, the mechanical condition of the vehicle, reliability of the rental agency and your budget. Don't think about driving a car yourself in Vietnam; a motorbike is challenging enough, and moreover, hire charges include a driver.
                                        
CAR & MINIBUS

Self-drive rental cars have yet to make their debut in Vietnam, which is a blessing in disguise given traffic conditions, but cars with drivers are popular and plentiful. Renting a vehicle with a driver and guide is a realistic option even for budget travellers, providing you have friends to share the cost.

Hanoi and HCMC have an especially wide the day. It costs about US$20 to US$30 per day, depending on the car.

Renting a minibus (van) is good value for larger groups, as they hold between eighl and 15 passengers. They are also a smart option for groups of three or four on travelling long distances at night, as everyone can stretch out.

For the really bad roads of northwestern Vietnam, the only reasonably safe vehicle is a 4WD. Without one, the muddy mountain roads can be deadly. In Vietnam, 4WDs come in different flavours - the cheapest (and least comfortable) are Russian made, while more cushy Korean and lapanese vehicles with air-con are about twice the price.

MOTORBIKE

Motorbikes can be rented from cafes, hotels, motorbike shops and travel agencies, if you don't fancy self-drive, there are plenty of local drivers willing to act as a chauffeur and guide for around US$6 to US$10 per day.

Renting a 100cc moped is cheap at around US$6 per day, usually with unlimited mileage. For more on renting a mighty Minsk to take on the mountains of the far northwest.

Most places will ask to keep your passport until you return the bike. Try and sign some sort of agreement - preferably in a language you understand - clearly stating what you are renting, how much it costs, the extent of compensation and so on.

Insurance

If you are travelling in a tourist vehicle with u driver, then it is almost guaranteed to be insured. When it comes to motorbikes, many rental bikes are not insured and you will have to sign a contract agreeing to a valuation for the bike if it is stolen. Make sure you have a strong lock and always leave it in guarded parking where available.

Do not even consider renting a motorbike if you are daft enough to be travelling in Vietnam without insurance. The cost of treating serious injuries is bankrupting for budget travellers.

Road Conditions & Hazards

Road safety is definitely not one of Vietnam's strong points. The intercity road network of two-lane highways is becoming more and more dangerous. High-speed, head-on collisions between buses, trucks and other smaller vehicles (such as motorbikes and bicycles) have become a sickeningly familiar sight on the major highways. Vietnam does not have an efficient emergency-rescue system, so if something happens on the road, it could be hours until even rudimentary medical treatment.

In general, the major highways are hard surfaced and reasonably well maintained, but seasonal flooding can be a problem. A big typhoon can create potholes trie size of bomb craters. In remote areas roads are not surfaced and will become a sea of mud if the weather turns had - such roads are best tackled with a 4WD vehicle or motorbike. Mountain roads are particularly dangerous: those landslides, falling rocks and runaway vehicles can add an unwelcome edge to your journey. The occasional roadside cemetery often indicates where a bus has plunged over the edge.

For motorbikers, serious sunburn is a major risk and well worth preventing. The cooling breeze prevents you from realising how badly you are burning until it's too late. Cover up exposed skin or wear sunscreen. Bikers also must consider the opposite problem - occasional heavy rains. A rainsuit or poncho is essential, especially during the monsoon season.

Road Rules

Basically, there aren't any. Size matters and the biggest vehicle wins by default. Be particularly careful about children on the road -you'll find kids playing hopscotch in the middle of a major highway. Livestock on the road is also a menace; hit a cow on a motorbike and you'll both be hamburger.

Although the police frequently stop drivers and fine them for all sorts of real and imagined offences, nobody gets stopped for speeding. Rally driving is the norm and everyone seems to be in the race. In cities, there is a rule that you cannot turn right on a red light. It's easy to run afoul of this law in Vietnam and the police will fine you for this offence.

Honking at all pedestrians and bicycles (to warn them of your approach) is considered a basic element of safe driving -larger trucks and buses might as well have a dynamo-driven horn.

There is no national seat-belt law and the locals often laugh at foreigners who insist on using seat bells. Helmets are now required for motorbike riders on national highways and, although this is not always enforced, it's wise to make it a personal rule. Decent helmets are available in HCMC and Hanoi for around US$20.

Legally a motorbike can carry only two people, but we've seen up to seven on one vehicle...plus luggage! This law is enforced in major cities, but ignored in rural areas.

Getting Around

AIR

If you intend to visit only a few cities in Vietnam, which flying is the most convenient way to travel. Vietnam Airlines flies to places like Phu Quoc Island and Rach Gia that are difficult to reach by other means.
For more detailed information on Airlines, please click here

TRAIN

There is a regular train service between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City and most cities in between. Many people like to travel the length of the country this way. Tickets allow passengers to break their journey at the major regional cities like Hue, Danang and Nha Trang. The trip from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City takes between 36 and 48 hours non-stop, depending on which service is used. Passengers can book a sleeping compartment, soft seat, or economy class.

BUS

Vietnam has a regular bus service that connects even the remotest areas of the country. It is very cheap but the emphasis is on economy rather than comfort.

TAXI

In the major cities the easiest method of transport are taxis. Most are relatively new models of car and are air-conditioned. Prices are very cheap and most trips within a city cost between US$2 and US$5. Contrast this with the price of a cyclo trip (about the same), and except for the novelty of the transport, taxis provide a better service. Tourism authorities advise tourists not to take cyclos at night.

HONDA OM

On any street corner in Vietnam, you will find men with motorcycles willing to carry you anywhere. This mode of transport is known as Honda Om or Honda Embrace. It is usually cheap and reliable although the fare should be negotiated before commencing the journey.

Local transport

There are many kinds of local transports in Vietnam at different prices. 

Bus
The bus systems in Hanoi and HCMC have improved in the past few years but are light years behind Hong Kong and Bangkok and, in general, buses are not a practical way to get around town. Fortunately there are many other fast and economical options, such as meter taxis, cycles and motorbike taxis.

Cyclo
The cycle (xich lo), from the French cyclo-pousse, is the best invention since sliced bread. Cycles offer cheap and environmentally friendly transportation around Vietnam's sprawling cities.

Groups of cyclo drivers always hang out near major hotels and markets, and many speak at least broken English. To make sure the driver understands where you want to go, it's useful to bring a city map. Bargaining is imperative. Settle on a fare before going anywhere or you're likely to get stiffed.

As a basic rule, short rides around town should cost about 5000d. For a longer ride or a night ride, expect to pay double that or more. It pays to have the exact change when taking a cyclo, as drivers may claim they don't have change. Cycles are cheaper by time rather than distance. A typical price is US$1 per hour.

There have been many stories of travellers being mugged by their cycio drivers in HCMC so, as a general rule of thumb, hire cyclos only during the day. When leaving a bar late at night, take a meter taxi.

Taxi
Western-style taxis with meters, found in most major cities, are very, very cheap by international standards and a safe way to travel around at night. Average tarifts are about 10,000d per kilometre.

Xe dap loi & Xe loi

The two forms ot transport used mostly in the Mekong Delta are the xe dap loi, which is a wagon pulled by a bicycle, and the xe lôi, a wagon pulled by a motorbike.

Xe lam

Xe lam are tiny, three-wheeled trucks used for short-haul passenger and freight transport (similar to the Indonesian bajaj). They tend to have whining two-stroke “lawn mower” engines with no mufflers and emu copious quantities of blue exhaust smoke.

Xe om

The xe om (zay-ohm) is a motorbike that carries one passenger, like a two-wheeled taxi. Xe means motorbike, and om means hug (or hold), so you probably get the picture. Getting around by xe om is easy as long as you don't have a lot of luggage.   

Fares are comparable with those for a 5 cyclo, but negotiate the price beforehand. There are plenty of xe om drivers hanging around street corners, markets, hotels and bus stations. They will find you before you find them.

Train

The 2600km Vietnamese railway system, operated by Vietnam Railways (Duong Sat Viet Nam; tel  04-3747 0308        ; www.vr.com.vn), runs along the coast between HCMC and Hanoi, and links the capital with Hai Phong and northern towns. While sometimes even slower than bvws, trains offer a more relaxing way to get around and more leg and body room than the jam-packed buses. The trains are also much safer than the country's kamikaze bus fleet.

Vietnam's railway authority has been rapidly upgrading trains and facilities with aircon sleeping berths and dining cars available now on express trains - and lowering the price for foreigners. Foreigners and Vietnamese are now charged the same price, a big change from a few years ago when foreigners were charged 400% more!

The quickest train journey between Hanoi and HCMC takes 30 hours. The slowest express train on this route takes 41 hours. There are also local trains that only cover short routes, but these can crawl along at 15km/h, as there is only one track with many passing points and local trains have the lowest priority.

Petty crime is a problem on Vietnamese trains. While there doesn't seem to be organised pack-nipping gangs, such as those in India, thieves have become proficient at grabbing packs through the windows as trains pull out of stations. Always keep your bag nearby and lock or tie it to something, especially at night.

Another hazard is children throwing rocks at the train. Passengers have been severely injured this way and many conductors insist that you keep down the metal window shield. Unfortunately, however, these shields also obstruct the view.

Bicycles and motorbikes must travel in the freight car. Just make sure that the train you are on has a freight car (most have) or your bike will arrive later than you do.

Eating is easy, as there are vendors at every station who board the train and practically stuff food, drinks and cigarettes into your pockets. However, the food supplied by the railway company, included in the ticket price on some long journeys, isn't Michelin rated. It's a good idea to stock up on your favourite munchies before taking a long trip.

Odd-numbered trains travel south and even-numbered ones travel north. The fastest train service is provided by the Reunification Express, which runs between HCMC and Hanoi, making only a few short slops en route. If you want to stop at some obscure point between the major towns, one of the slower local trains.

Aside from the main HCMC-Hanoi run, three rail-spur lines link Hanoi with the other parts of northern Vietnam. One runs east to the port city ol Hai Phong. A second heads northeast to Lang Son, crosses the border and continues to Nanning, China. A third goes northwest to Lao Cai and on to Kunming, China.

Four Reunification Express trains depart from HCMC's Saigon station between 4am and 10.30pm every day. The same number of trains depart from Hanoi between San and 6.40pm daily.

The train schedules change frequently The timetables for all trains are posted on the Vietnam Railway website and at major stations. Most travel agents and some hotels keep a copy of the latest schedule on hand. In HCMC call or visit the Saigon Railways Tourist Service in the Pham Ngu Lao area.

It's important to realise that the train schedule is 'bare-bones' during the Tel festival. The Reunification Express is suspended for nine days, beginning four days before Tet and continuing for four days afterwards.

Classes

There are four main classes of train travel in Vietnam: hard seat, soft seat, hard sleeper and soft sleeper. The latter three are also split into air-con and nonair-con options; presently, air-con is only available on the fastest express trains. Since it's all that many Vietnamese can afford, hard-seat class is usually packed. Hard seat is tolerable for day travel, but overnight it is worse than the bus. Soft-seat carriages have vinyl-covered seats rather than the uncomfortable hard benches.
 

A hard sleeper has three tiers of beds (six beds per compartment). Becathe Vietnamese don't seem to like climbing up, the upper berth is cheapest, followed by the middle berth and finally the lower berth. There is no door to separate the compartment from the corridor. Soft sleeper has two tiers (four beds per compartment) and all bunks are priced the same. These compartments have a door.

Costs

Ticket prices vary depending on the train, and the fastest trains are naturally the most expensive. See the following table for some simple fares from Hanoi to stations south. For all the details on trains from Hanoi to Hai Phong, Lao Cai  and Lang Son, see the relevant sections.

Reservations

The supply of train seats is often insufficient to meet demand. Reservations for all trips should be made at least one day in advance. For sleeping berths, it is wise to hook several days before the date of departure. Bring your passport when buying train tickets.

Many travel agencies, hotels and cafes sell train tickets for a small commission, and this can considerable time and trouble. It's a good idea to make reservations for onward travel as soon as you arrive in a city.

Walking

If you don't want to wind up like a bug on a windshield, pay close attention to a few pedestrian survival rules, especially on the streets of motorbike-crazed HCMC and Hanoi. Foreigners frequently make the mistake of thinking that the best way to cross a busy street in Vietnam is to run quickly across it. This does not always work, and could get you creamed. Most Vietnamese cross the street slowly - very slowly - giving the motorbike drivers sufficient time to judge their position so they can pass on either side. They won't stop or even slow down, but they will try to avoid hitting you. Just don't make any sudden moves.