By plane
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Tan Son Nhat (Tân Sơn Nhất) (IATA: SGN | ICAO: VVTS) is Vietnam's largest international airport. There are two terminals: the new international terminal, which took over all international flights from September 2nd 2007, and the old terminal, which will be reserved for domestic traffic. Immigration is notoriously strict and can be time consuming, but if your papers are in order you should be fine. Note that the all-white departure cards are only for those without the 'yellow paper' received upon arrival. If you've lost your departure card or forgot to fill one out, the immigration officer may request $20 as a bribe to let you pass. Don't give him the money - return to the front gate and fill out a new departure card. Remember that bribery is still a problem in this communist country.
The recently introduced No. 152 air-con airport bus is the cheapest way into the city, and will drop you off on the west side of the Pham Ngu Lao area, or at the bus terminal on the south side of the Ben Thanh Market roundabout. The price was recently increased to 3000 dong. Upon exiting the airport, turn right and walk towards the domestic airport, about 5 minutes walk, in front of the airport across a small road you will see the bus waiting there. Taxi drivers may tell you there are no more airport buses — ignore them.
Taxis from the airport to the city center would take as little as 15 minutes in lighter traffic (which only happens between 11:00 am and 4:00 pm). The more typical experience is to creep along in near-standstill traffic for 30 minutes or more, at a cost of about 120,000VND to 150,000VND from district 1, inclusive of airport tax. A company called Sasco has the airport taxi concession, and their cars are the first you will see by the curb. They are OK, just a bit more expensive than rivals such as Vinasun, Vinataxi, and Mai Linh, which can be found waiting in abundance 50 meters away, further out into the parking lot. Whichever taxi you choose, make sure the driver uses the meter. Major taxi companies are fairly honest, but if you want to avoid all stress, you could simply buy a "Taxi coupon" at one of the counter after the custom declaration & x-ray at international airport terminal. The black VIP taxi (Vinasun, Mai Linh) will give you premium service with better Lexus car at higher rate. These maybe unnecessary expenses for a short trip to the hotel.
You can change money at the airport, usually just enough to pay for the taxi ride (US$10), but you're probably better off paying for your first trip with US$ and exchanging in the city as the exchange in the airport may charge a commission as high as 3%. For simple calculation, taxi drivers & street vendors usually take 1 USD = 16,000 VND.
Taxi drivers earn commission by taking customers to certain hotels, so be explicit about exactly which hotel you want to be taken to. Driver may come up with any kind of excuses, from "no vacancy" or "circus is in town" just to get you stay at other (commission paying) hotels.
Be specific which terminal you want to go to. International flights go from the newer international terminal (go straight); Domestic flights (to Hanoi, Danang, Nha Trang, etc) are from domestic terminal (turn left). Drop at the wrong terminal and you have to dash your way to the right terminal via pedestrian walkway link 600m away. Not recommended if you're already late for boarding.
When entering the airport, taxi drivers will add the entry fee to your total meter. This is for the airport entry fee (5000 VND). Don't confuse this entry fee with "Airport Departure Tax" as International Departure Taxes should have been included in the price of your flight ticket.
By bus
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The multitude of private tour company buses usually drop passengers off on Pham Ngu Lao just west of De Tham, giving easy access to accommodation in the backpacker area. Of course, this means that you'll have at least 40-odd people shopping for the same rooms, which can be daunting as the nearby spots get snapped up. Patience will reward those who dig deeper into the tiny alleys, which have a (surprisingly safe) life of their own.
By train
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The train station is located on Cach Mang Thang Tam (CMT8) Northwest of the city center, and is a short taxi or public bus ride away from the main hotel districts.
There is an official train ticket office in the backpackers district, located at 275C Pham Ngu Lao.
By Taxi
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Taxis are the most comfortable way of getting around, and not too expensive - about 15,000 dong for the first 1km, plus 11000 dong per additional km. (Prices jumped about 30% at the start of 2008, and again in July 2008 due to the soaring price of fuel.) It's usually not hard to flag a taxi anywhere in the central city, though finding an available one in the rain or during peak hours can be difficult.
Taxi rates are not regulated by the city government, and each company sets its own fare structure, which changes from time to time. The market is fairly competitive, however, and the major companies all reasonably honest with similar rates. Major companies include: Vinasun (white), Mai Linh (various shades of white (standard), green (mini w/ cheaper rate), brown, and silver, Vinataxi (yellow), Petrolimex (white with blue and orange) and Savico (blue). Hoang Long (green and yellow) charges similar fares for short trips, but is 10-20% higher for long trips. Some off-brand taxis, such as "Taxi-Meter," have fast meters, and are best avoided unless you are a regular and know them well. Drivers generally do not speak English or any other foreign language, so if your destination is somewhere other than the airport or a major hotel, it might help to write the name and/or address on paper beforehand.
Carry small change and bills for paying fares, since drivers are often short of change. Taxi models in service range from the tiny Daewoo Matiz to big Toyota Innova minivans. Newer cars are more likely to have working air-con; larger mini-SUV-type models sometimes charge a higher rate.
By Motorbike
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Traffic In Ho Chi Minh CityMotorbike taxis (xe ôm, literally hug-vehicle) are plentiful (get used to hearing "you want moto!?" everywhere), cheap, and are generally quite safe. As of December 15th, 2007 all riders in Vietnam are now required to wear helmets an this is strongly enforced. As such, the driver should supply you with a helmet. If he doesn't - find another one, as you'll be the one stung for the fine. Absolutely agree on a price before you set off; short hops around town shouldn't be more than 10000 dong, and all the way to the airport around 30000. Rule of thumb for the price will be nearest round up of half the cost of taxi ride for the same travel. Drivers are generally quite friendly and will go slower if requested. They're also not adverse to a bear hug if you're really struggling. Many of the moto drivers, especially in district 1 speak some English, and like many Vietnamese will repay you in a flood of smiles (and probably point out all the sights) if you make a little effort to get to know them.
You can rent your own motorbike in many places, especially around the backpacker area (Pham Ngu Lao) in District 1. Prices range from US$3-7/day; US$4 should get you a solid 100-110cc bike. Driving in Saigon is best left to experienced drivers, however - the traffic is intense, and has its own rhythms and logic. Drivers with limited experience should consider renting an automatic bike (usually a bit more expensive), as at busy crossroads there is not time for worrying about how to change gears. Beware of thieves: always keep your motorbike in sight or parked with an attendant. Most restaurants have guard / parking attendants out front who will issue you a numbered tag and take care of your motorbike. Independent parking lots are scattered around the sidewalks, alleys, and basements of the city – look for rows of neatly-parked motorbikes or signs that say giu xe. Prices range from free at some restaurants (though a small tip is common) to 5000 dong (~.30 US cents) at upscale night clubs.
By Cyclo
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For many reasons, not least because of government attempts to restrict cyclos on busy urban streets, cyclos are disappearing. At around US$2/hour and because they are so slow, they can be a good choice for taking in the city - however in areas popular with tourists, they often try to overcharge, so bargain beforehand. The price changes after your journey as finished, resulting in an embarrassing argument which soon becomes an intimidating atmospheare as other cyclo drivers appear as back up. While very friendly, the driver often visits places which benefit his wallet. The driver often ignores your directions for museums and heads to his favoured local poor quality gift shop. They circulate around the central market and will immediately try to take you on a city tour the moment you are on board. Unless you fancy the novelty of a cyclo, a taxi will be quicker and just as cheap to anywhere you may want to go.
Walking
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Traffic is made up of a staggering number of motorbikes and, since import duty was reduced upon Vietnam's joining of the WTO, an increasing number of private cars. However its exceptionally rare to see a motorbike of more than 150cc, and the traffic rarely gets above 20-30km/h in central areas.
However crossing the road in Saigon can be a nightmare. The first time may be a little scary, after that you will get used to it quite quickly. If ever in doubt, Saigon's "Tourist Security" officers (guys in marked green uniforms) will happily help you across.
However the true trick to crossing the road is to stay aware, and walk slowly and confidently. The motorbike riders are actually exceptionally good and will simply move to avoid you - just don't make any sudden lurches forwards, backwards, or stop for that matter! Just look for a gap or seam in the traffic, and begin a slow but steady movement.
Adherence to traffic signals in Saigon is vastly improving, and while they're not always followed, riders/drivers tend to use "best judgement". Just remember though that vehicles can ALWAYS turn right at any time (regardless of lights). Motorbikes often drive in the wrong direction (albeit quite safely and slowly) in unexpected places also. Crossing roads is therefore a challenge for Westerners used to traffic laws and traffic lights.
The streets, sidewalks, and outdoor markets are covered by motorbikes, and not yet geared towards pedestrian traffic (although sidewalk clearing campaigns are now underway- many areas of the center are easy to negotiate as long as you keep your wits about you for speeding motorbikes). However walking along the edge of the road is easy enough. Any motorbikes behind you will generally beep at you to let you know they're there.
The traffic police occupy themselves with random roadside checks and do not bother the motorcyclists that are running red lights or driving on the sidewalks. The police recently announced a crackdown on pedestrians. This does NOT mean that they will hassle you; the most likely meaning of the crackdown is that you will be held responsible if you are involved in an accident.
But there are some open sidewalks to walk safely on and just walking around the city helps you really get a taste of it. Seeing people cook on the side of the street and just standing watching traffic go by in awe is just as entertaining as anything.
Maps
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Most hotels will provide a free tourist map of district 1 although these vary in quality and tend to be advertising based. The Sheraton have one of the best of these and will provide one if you ask at reception. Within District 1, 'Bookazine' at #28 Dong Khoi (between Ngo Duc Ke and Ho Huan Nghiep) have larger city Maps if you plan to venture beyond District 1. The one published by Du Lich & Giao Thong has a street index on the back. Fahasa Books also carry a full range of available Maps. They have two large stores in District 1 - 185 Dong Khoi, just down from Le Thanh Ton, and 40 Nguyen Hue, just down from Mac Thi Buoi. MySherpa Travel have also published tourist maps of central District 1 with all shops and points of interest marked. Outlets in Saigon include Gaya, Dolce Casa, Annam Fine Foods, T&V Tailor, Galley Deli, and a number of two star hotels
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