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Tam Coc - Bich Dong in Ninh Binh Vietnam

Tam Coc

Tam Coc, a fairy-tale Vietnamese version of Disneyland with dramatic, jagged limestone rocks jutting out of watery rice fields. Tam Coc means “Three grottoes”. These grottoes were made due to the transformation of geology, seawater and rainwater that have worn cliffs in a long period of millions of years. The three grottoes are situated on Ngo Dong River and are permeated by the water of this river, so they are also called the “Three Trans Grottoes”.

The longer we travel on the rowing boat, the more beautiful, fanciful and poetic the scenery becomes; the air becomes fresher as we are far away from the bustling and dusty atmosphere of streets. On either side of the boats, there are green rice fields and lotus puddles. Rapids have developed in he Ngo Dong river by the accumulation of falling rock. The rapids look like a front screen of Ca grotto and creates a branching road before the tourists’ boat visit Ca Grotto.

Ca Grotto is located at the foot of a big mountain that crosses over Ngo Dong River. It is called Ca Grotto, as it is the first and also the longest and broadest grotto of Tam Coc tour. If tourists visit the grotto in the morning, they can see that a cliff at the entrance to the grotto is sparkling and colorfully reflected by water surface when the sunshine passes by.

Meandering partly along the river, getting access to Hai Grotto; tourists seem to be lost in heaven because of the never- ending stretching lotus ponds with their specific perfume, and beautiful picture of mountain, river and water. Hai grotto rests under shadows of trees; the grotto is 60 meters long and 18 meters wide; it is also situated at the foot of a mountain that crosses over Ngo Dong River. From the entrance to the ceiling of the grotto, there are many stalactites with different shapes. When we are rowing our boats in the grotto, we have the feeling of rowing among clouds of stalactites silhouetted against the water. The stalactites project down to the river from the ceiling of the grotto so low that tourists can touch them.

Getting out of Hai grotto, the scenery is very imposing with mountains surrounding a part of Ngo Dong River which meanders through green rice seeding fields. The river between the second and the third one is rather short; only around 100 meters. Therefore, when we have just got out of Hai grotto we can see Ba grotto at the corner of the river.

Ba Grotto appears with an entrance like a cross-fracture of the mountain, it is the smallest of the 3 grottoes but it is the coolest and has a pleasant breeze. The ceiling of Ba grotto is low, the reflected light make tourist feel like heaven.

Say goodbye to Ba grotto, tourists can go ashore to relax, enjoy the scenery of mountains and valleys and from a far distance, and aroma of lotus ponds. Tourists can visit the next part of Ngo Dong River before coming back, or they can continue rowing a boat along the river to visit the Fairy Stream. On the journey back, tourists can moor the boat to visit Thai Vi, a centuries old secluded temple, reached by short walk through emaral green fields.

Bich Dong Pagoda

From Tam Coc boat pier, drive East nearly 3km, tourists will reach Bich Dong pagoda – an ever ancient three tiered cave pagoda. It is only accessible by steep stone steps, but it is really worth climbing up for a charming pagoda and stupendous view from the top.

Bich Dong pagoda was built by the collective and missionary works of 2 Buddhist monks: Tri Kien and Tri The. All three pagodas of Bich Dong have wooden architecture due to the architectural style of the time at the end of Le Dynasty and in the beginning of Nguyen Dynasty. They were arranged according to ascending order on the position of Bich Dong Mountain like a Chinese letter: “Tam”. Ha Pagoda (Lower Pagoda) is located at the foot of the mountain, Trung Pagoda (Middle Pagoda) is on a mountainside and Thuong pagoda (Upper Pagoda) is situated on top of the mountain. All 3 pagodas’ backs lean against the mountain.

Like many other pagoda in the North of Vietnam, Ha Pagoda has the floor plan of a Chinese word: "Dinh" (工). The roof of pagoda has 2 storeys and 8 roofs. The eaves of the pagoda is very broad and constructed by 6 stone steps. The two gables of the pagoda and fence were built of stone. The upper temple was built of monolithic square stone pillars. On the eave of the pagoda, there is a Chinese sentence:"Gia lam than hoang bao dien Nam thien to" meaning that this place is worshipping the ancestors of Vietnam. In term of hierarchical altars, there are four rows of Buddhist statues: the statues of Tam The (Past, Present and Future Buddhas) in the first row, the statues of Di Da Tam Ton in the second row, the statue of Bodhisattva Kwan Yin with a thousand eyes and thousand hands in the third row; the statue of Thich Ca So Sinh (Baby Buddha) in the forth row and many other worshipping objects like incense burners, lamp and candle that make a solemn and mysterious atmosphere.

Leaving Ha Pagoda for Trung Pagoda, arriving at front-yard of Trung pagoda, the most impressive feature is the picture of the Chinese letters “Bich Dong” granted by Tinh Do Vuong Trinh Sam; and Nguyen Nghiem complied with the order to carve it on a front cliff of Trung pagoda.

Trung pagoda heads west wards, and has floor plan of a Chinese word: “Dinh”. The roof of pagoda has 2 stories, the upper temple has 3 rooms, and the forecourt has 3 rooms. Standing inside Trung pagoda, tourists do not feel that they are staying in a mountain cave because this pagoda was designed like many ground pagodas with a tiled roof, and walls that cover the cliffs.

To reach Thuong pagoda (upper pagoda), tourists have to get through the Dark Cave or Blue Cave and climb up 40 stone steps on the mountain side. For a long way up to the top of Bich Dong pagoda, tourists are awarded with a panoramic view of dramatic limestone ridges and dotted hamlets and a particularly refreshing moment.

The pagoda has 2 rooms in a vertical house-style, the outer room has a forecourt with a stone alter. There is a special statue of Bodhisattva in the inner room as Bodhisattva sits on top of the mountain, not on Buddha's throne, her hands make gestures like preaching. Artisans wanted to represent her image of preaching on the top of the mountain.

Due to its charming landscape and unique value of Buddhism, there are many pilgrims coming to Bich Dong all year round.

Vietnam destination
My Son - a large complex of religious relics that comprises more than 70 architectural works


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