A great way to get around Vietnam's towns and cities is to do as the locals do and ride a bicycle. During rush hours, urban thoroughfares approach gridlock, as rushing streams of cyclists force their way through intersections without the benefit of traffic lights. In the countryside, Westerners on bicycles are often greeted enthusiastically by locals who don'l see many foreigners pedalling around.

Long-distance cycling is popular in Vietnam. Much of the country is flat or only moderately hilly, and the major roads are in good shape. Safety, however, is a considerable concern. Bicycles can be transported around the country on the top of buses or in train baggage compartments. Lonely Planet's Cycling Vietnam, Laos & Cambodia gives the lowdown on cycling through Vietnam.

Decent bikes can be bought at a few speciality shops in Hanoi and HCMC, but it's better to bring your own if you plan on cycling over long distances. Mountain bikes are preferable, a large potholes or unsealed roads are rough on the rims. Basic cycling safety equipment and authentic spare parts arc also in short supply, so bring all this from home. A bell is mandatory - the louder the better.

Hotels and some travel agencies rent bicycles from 10,000d to US$1 per day and it is a great way to explore some of the smaller cities like Hue or Nha Trang. There are innumerable bicycle-repair stands along the side ol the roads in every city and town in Vietnam.

Groups of foreign cyclists touring Vietnam are a common sight these days, and there are several tour companies that specialise in bicycling trips.