Vietnam has an extensive network of dirt-cheap buses that reach the far-flung corners of the country. Traditionally, few foreign travellers have used them becaof safety concerns and overcharging, but the situation is improving with modern buses and fixed-price ticket offices at most bus stations.

Bus fleets are being upgraded as fast as the roads, so the old French, American and Russian buses from the '50s, '60s and '70s are becoming increasingly rare. On most popular routes, modern Korean buses are the flavour of the day. Most of these offer air-con and comfortable seats, but on the flipside most of them are equipped with TVs and dreaded karaoke machines. You can ignore the crazy kung fu videos by closing your eyes (or wearing a blindfold), but you'd need to be deaf to sleep through the karaoke sessions - ear plugs are recommended!

Figuring out the bus system is not easy. Many cities have several bus stations, and responsibilities are divided according to the location of the destination (whether it is north or south of the city) and the type of service being offered (local or long distance, express or nonexpress).

Short-distance buses, mostly minibuses, depart when full (ie jam-packed with people and luggage). They often operate throughout the day, but don't count on many leaving after about 4pm.

Non-express buses and minibuses nt stops to pick up and drop off (and arrange luggage and chickens) can make for a slow journey.

Express buses make a beeline from place to place. This is the deluxe class and you can usually be certain of there being enouch  space to sit comfortably. Such luxury comes at a price, but it's very cheap by anyone’s standards.

It is also perfectly feasible (and highly recommended) to kick in with some fellow travellers and charter your own minibus. If possible, try to travel during daylight hours only. Many drivers refto drive after dark becathe unlit highways leni' to have gaping potholes and lots of bicycle; and pedestrians who seem oblivious to the traffic. However, if you like living dangerously, there are some overnight buses.

Be aware that luggage is easily pilfered at toilet stops unless someone is looking after it. Bound to the rooftop, it should be safe from swift hands, but try keeping the bags in sight. A distinct disadvantage of having your gear on top is that it will be exposed to constant dust and sometimes heavy rain.

No matter how honest your fellow passengers might seem, never accept drinks from them, as there is a chance you may be drugged and robbed.

Reservations & Costs

Reservations aren't required for most of the frequent, popular services between towns and cities, but it doesn't hurt to purchase the ticket the day before if you're on a departure time. Most major bus stations now have ticket offices with official prices clearly displayed. Always buy a ticket from the office, as bus drivers arc notorious overchargers.

Costs are negligible, though on rural runs foreigners are typically charged anywhere from twice to 10 times the going rate. If you have to battle it out with the bus driver, it is helpful to determine the cost of the ticket for locals before starting negotiations.

Open Tours

In backpacker haunts throughout Vietnam, you'll see lots of signs advertising “Open Tour”, “Open Date Ticket” or “Open Ticket”. This is a bus service catering mostly to foreign budget travellers, not to Vietnamese. These air-con buses run between HCMC and Hanoi and people can hop on and hop off the bus at any major city along the route.

Competition has driven the price of these tours so low that it would practically only be cheaper if you walked. Sample prices from HCMC are as follows:

Some would argue they should raise the cost of the tickets and, by actually making money on the bus fare, allow passengers some freedom of choice on arrival at a destination. Unfortunately, they depend on kickbacks from a very elaborate and well-established network of sister hotels and restaurants along the way, making the whole experience feel like you are part of a herd.

However, bear in mind that if they weren't collecting commissions by delivering travellers to using these relatively speedy buses, but it can make your hair turn grey (or fall out!).

As cheap and popular as it is, the open-tour deal is not the ideal way to experience Vietnam. Once you've bought the ticket, you're stuck with it. It really isolates you from Vietnam - you should try to have at least some contact with the locals. Buying shorter point-to-point tickets on the open-tour buses costs a bit more but you achieve more flexibility, including the chance to take a train, rent a motorbike or simply change plans.

Nevertheless, cheap open-tour tickets are a temptation and many people go for tiiem. A couple of shorter routes to try arc HCMC-Dalal and HCMC-Mui Ne Beach, two places that are not serviced by train.

If you are on open-tour tickets, look for them at budget cafes in HCMC and Hanoi. From the original Sinh Cafe concept a decade ago, there are now lots of companies in on this game. Buses vary in size and standard, so a good rule of thumb is to turn up and check out the bus before committing to a company.