The discomfort and unreliability of Vietnam's public transport combined with the relative affordabilify of vehicle hire makes the latter a popular option. Having your own of wheels gives you maximum flexibility to visit remote regions and stop when and where you please.

Driving Licence

In order to drive a car in Vietnam, you need a domestic licence and an International Driving Permit, usually issued by your automobile association back home. When it comes to renting motorbikes, it's a case of no licence required.

Fuel & Spare Parts

Fuel is pretty cheap in Vietnam, at around 16000D a litre. Fuel is readily available throughout the country, but prices rise in rural areas. Even the most isolated communities usually have someone selling petrol out of Fanta or Johnnie Walker bottles. Some sellers mix this fuel with kerosene to make a quick profit -it sparingly, in emergencies only.

When it comes to spare parts, Vietnam is awash with Japanese motorbikes, so it is easy to get parts for Hondas, Yamahas or Suzukis, but finding a part for a Harley or a Ducati is another matter. Likewise for cars, spares for Japanese cars are easv to come by, as are spares for international brands manufactured in Vietnam like tord and Mercedes. But if you are driving something obscure, whether with two wheels or four, bring substantial spares.

Hire

The major considerations arc safety, the mechanical condition of the vehicle, reliability of the rental agency and your budget. Don't think about driving a car yourself in Vietnam; a motorbike is challenging enough, and moreover, hire charges include a driver.
                                        
CAR & MINIBUS

Self-drive rental cars have yet to make their debut in Vietnam, which is a blessing in disguise given traffic conditions, but cars with drivers are popular and plentiful. Renting a vehicle with a driver and guide is a realistic option even for budget travellers, providing you have friends to share the cost.

Hanoi and HCMC have an especially wide the day. It costs about US$20 to US$30 per day, depending on the car.

Renting a minibus (van) is good value for larger groups, as they hold between eighl and 15 passengers. They are also a smart option for groups of three or four on travelling long distances at night, as everyone can stretch out.

For the really bad roads of northwestern Vietnam, the only reasonably safe vehicle is a 4WD. Without one, the muddy mountain roads can be deadly. In Vietnam, 4WDs come in different flavours - the cheapest (and least comfortable) are Russian made, while more cushy Korean and lapanese vehicles with air-con are about twice the price.

MOTORBIKE

Motorbikes can be rented from cafes, hotels, motorbike shops and travel agencies, if you don't fancy self-drive, there are plenty of local drivers willing to act as a chauffeur and guide for around US$6 to US$10 per day.

Renting a 100cc moped is cheap at around US$6 per day, usually with unlimited mileage. For more on renting a mighty Minsk to take on the mountains of the far northwest.

Most places will ask to keep your passport until you return the bike. Try and sign some sort of agreement - preferably in a language you understand - clearly stating what you are renting, how much it costs, the extent of compensation and so on.

Insurance

If you are travelling in a tourist vehicle with u driver, then it is almost guaranteed to be insured. When it comes to motorbikes, many rental bikes are not insured and you will have to sign a contract agreeing to a valuation for the bike if it is stolen. Make sure you have a strong lock and always leave it in guarded parking where available.

Do not even consider renting a motorbike if you are daft enough to be travelling in Vietnam without insurance. The cost of treating serious injuries is bankrupting for budget travellers.

Road Conditions & Hazards

Road safety is definitely not one of Vietnam's strong points. The intercity road network of two-lane highways is becoming more and more dangerous. High-speed, head-on collisions between buses, trucks and other smaller vehicles (such as motorbikes and bicycles) have become a sickeningly familiar sight on the major highways. Vietnam does not have an efficient emergency-rescue system, so if something happens on the road, it could be hours until even rudimentary medical treatment.

In general, the major highways are hard surfaced and reasonably well maintained, but seasonal flooding can be a problem. A big typhoon can create potholes trie size of bomb craters. In remote areas roads are not surfaced and will become a sea of mud if the weather turns had - such roads are best tackled with a 4WD vehicle or motorbike. Mountain roads are particularly dangerous: those landslides, falling rocks and runaway vehicles can add an unwelcome edge to your journey. The occasional roadside cemetery often indicates where a bus has plunged over the edge.

For motorbikers, serious sunburn is a major risk and well worth preventing. The cooling breeze prevents you from realising how badly you are burning until it's too late. Cover up exposed skin or wear sunscreen. Bikers also must consider the opposite problem - occasional heavy rains. A rainsuit or poncho is essential, especially during the monsoon season.

Road Rules

Basically, there aren't any. Size matters and the biggest vehicle wins by default. Be particularly careful about children on the road -you'll find kids playing hopscotch in the middle of a major highway. Livestock on the road is also a menace; hit a cow on a motorbike and you'll both be hamburger.

Although the police frequently stop drivers and fine them for all sorts of real and imagined offences, nobody gets stopped for speeding. Rally driving is the norm and everyone seems to be in the race. In cities, there is a rule that you cannot turn right on a red light. It's easy to run afoul of this law in Vietnam and the police will fine you for this offence.

Honking at all pedestrians and bicycles (to warn them of your approach) is considered a basic element of safe driving -larger trucks and buses might as well have a dynamo-driven horn.

There is no national seat-belt law and the locals often laugh at foreigners who insist on using seat bells. Helmets are now required for motorbike riders on national highways and, although this is not always enforced, it's wise to make it a personal rule. Decent helmets are available in HCMC and Hanoi for around US$20.

Legally a motorbike can carry only two people, but we've seen up to seven on one vehicle...plus luggage! This law is enforced in major cities, but ignored in rural areas.